Which theoben rapid

The heart of the rifle, the action block, is CNC machined from aircraft grade aluminium, which houses all the valve system, magazine, trigger and bolt units. It is hard black anodised and uses the original, Theoben rings that screw directly on top. The bolt operation is positive and short in travel that greatly aids to accurate delivery of each pellet into the barrel. Opening the bolt and locking the lever into the rear cut-out allows the mag to be slid out from the right side in the 7-shot variety or from the left if the shot is installed.

There are two shields to the left of the mag well to protect it from knocks and add support. The only obvious change to the firing cycle in FAC was that the bolt operation was stiffer, due to the beefed up hammer spring to knock open that exhaust valve internally.

Filling the magazine is simple, just turn the transparent cover anti-clockwise fully, pop in the first pellet to hold the tension and then clockwise turn the cover thus exposing a chamber to be filled; doddle. Slide it back in, pellet skirts facing you until it stops against the ears on the left side and all that is left is to cycle the bolt seven times and enjoy.

Up front, is the Evolution moderator that does a good job of taming that unavoidable PCP crack. This can further be enhanced by fitting a Vortex adaptor, as I did here. With all these excellent features working together in engineered bliss, you would think that the trigger would be up to the same standard, but I am afraid it lets the rest of the rifle down. Its 2-stage mechanism offers a crisp break of around 2lbs, but the first stage is like dragging yourself through a hawthorn bush in a fluffy coat.

However, upgraded Anschutz triggers can be fitted. Charging that bottle is simplicity its self, unscrew it a couple of millimetres and then cycle the bolt and fire mag out to empty the air in the valve assemblies and then unscrew it totally from the rifle. A charge to bar psi is fine but play around a bit to ascertain not only the best pressure fill but shot to shot consistency.

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Thread Tools Show Printable Version. I was just a young lad when I started airgunning and this was around the time that Theoben released the Rapid 7. I remember being absolutely fascinated by this mythical beast and could only dream of owning one Anyway, after a number of years away from the sport I've returned and once again I have my heart set on a Theoben Rapid I've spent a bit of time reading reviews etc but I'm still pretty unsure to be honest, I like the look of the Mk. Obviously the Mk.

Then there's the MFR but the option of single shot isn't a huge selling point for me and at the higher end there's the S-Type and the TTR1 which I like but they are pretty expensive. Does anyone have any thoughts or opinions they would be willing to share? Many thanks, Chris. That's just strange I just came on to start a topic asking exactly the same question! I shouldered a mk2 rapid today in my favourite. Repeat this step three or four times until no air is expelled on firing. This is known as 'bleeding the action'.

If the bottle were to be unscrewed with the action fully pressurised, a loud 'POP' would be heard from the inlet valve. This high speed discharge of air can damage the buddy bottle O ring. To remove the inlet valve, first clamp the action in a vice use a rag or cloth to protect the action. There are 2 milled flats on either side of the valve and you will need a 21mm spanner on here.

The inlet valves are usually very tight to prevent the unit being unscrewed on removal of the buddy bottle. If the valve is too tight to remove by hand as is usually the case , 'shock' it loose by tapping the end of the spanner with a hammer to 'crack' it loose, then unscrew by hand.

There is an 'O' ring at the top of the thread Ni 90 , this should be replaced and a small amount of Molykote 33 applied to the new ring. This should be removed and the 'O' ring replaced Ni On the right hand side of the action there is a 4BA grub screw, just in front of the breech area. This should be removed first. The grub screw aligns the transfer ports and secures the valve inside the action. With the rifle pointing downwards, cock and fire the action. The exhaust valve should drop out of the top hole in the front of the action from where you removed the blanking plug.

There are two types of exhaust valve on the Mk I Rapids, a metal valve stainless steel , and a black Acetal valve fitted to all models produced in '99 or later. The metal valve comprises two sections, the body and the cap. To remove the cap, you will have to slide a collet over the valve cap, and clamp in a vice not too tight, or the cap will be distorted.

A small rod should be inserted into the transfer port of the valve body for use as a lever to unscrew the cap. With the cap removed, the white seal can be replaced together with the Ni 90 'O' ring. Apply a small amount of Molykote 33 to the seals and reassemble the valve.

Pick off the 'O' ring around the external circumference of the valve. It is located in a small undercut at the front of the valve body. Replace the 'O' ring and apply Molykote The last 'O' ring to be changed is on the tail of the valve body. After applying a small amount of Molykote 33, the valve is ready to be replaced.

The unit only has two external 'O' rings, one around the external circumference of the body and one at the tail. There may be either one or two 'O' rings on the valve stem, depending on which type you have. The 'O' ring s should be picked off and replaced and a small amount of Molykote 33 applied to the new ones. This assembly is accessed through the rear of the action.

Unscrew the stainless cap at the rear, and then remove parts as follows: Hammer spring guide if applicable , hammer spring, and finally the hammer containing the washer, inertia weight and return spring. The hammer should be reassembled dry, as any lubrication will cause drag, slowing its travel, thus reducing power.